Caring for your adult  Irish Wolfhound 

Your hound will be happiest fit, not fat. A sensible feeding regime of two quality meals a day, combined with regular exercise, should keep an Irish

 

Wolfhound fit and happy.

Adult hounds should be fed twice a day. Because of their long legs, it can help to place the feeding bowl around 18" off the ground — this stops the hound having to splay their feet and elbows out at an uncomfortable angle to reach down. Many raised feeding stands are available in pet shops, but an old kitchen chair or stool can act as a suitable stand. (Note: evidence on raised bowls and bloat risk is mixed — some studies link raised feeding to higher, not lower, risk in deep-chested breeds. Worth discussing with your vet rather than treating this as settled.)

 

This condition — bloat, or gastric torsion — can be a real problem in deep-chested breeds such as Irish Wolfhounds. It involves the stomach turning over on itself, blocking the passage of food and gas at both ends, and can be fatal. It needs immediate veterinary attention.

 

There are other precautions you can take to minimise the risk. Bloat is thought to be linked to stress, so for 1–2 hours before and after every meal, the hound should be kept quiet, with no vigorous activity. It's also worth only feeding food that doesn't swell up after eating.

 

To test a food's consistency, put a handful into a bowl, pour on some hot water, and leave for 15–20 minutes. If it has increased in size, that food must be soaked before feeding. Mixer biscuit and meal is usually fine and, combined with meat, makes a good diet.

 

Try to encourage calm feeding, rather than letting the hound bolt their food.

If you notice a swollen, hard, or distended tummy, this could be an early sign of bloat. If the hound also seems uncomfortable, stands strangely, can't settle, or vomits a small amount of frothy liquid, get to a vet immediately. Gastric torsion is an emergency — it cannot be treated at home.

 

Wolfhounds are prodigious drinkers — a bucket or large bowl of fresh water should be available at all times. Clean the bowl thoroughly every morning before refilling; contaminated water can cause unexpected infections. Water should also be provided at a comfortable height.

 

Bedding and Joints

Every dog needs a place of their own. A Wolfhound's bed should sit somewhere draught-free and away from hazards.

 

As the hound grows, their joints need protecting, or they may develop bursas (hygromas) — unsightly, sometimes painful swellings, most often on the elbows, though hocks and hindquarters can also be affected. Bursas can also form after a knock. This fluid-filled sac usually subsides on its own unless it becomes infected, in which case seek veterinary attention. It can take six months or more to fully resolve.

 

Soft bedding is essential to support a Wolfhound's heavy bones and joints at rest. A rectangular bed of around 60"x40" will suit them far better than a round basket they can't stretch out in. A single-bed mattress with a wipe-clean cover, or a large piece of thick vinyl-covered foam, works well — a layer of fleece or a blanket on top adds comfort.

 

Grooming

Show dogs are tidied by "stripping out" overlong hairs with finger and thumb, which keeps them smart and preserves their graceful lines.

 

A companion hound benefits from the same attention. Use finger and thumb to remove untidy hair from the ears, inside and out. Keep the beard clean and free of food residue, which can irritate the skin. Daily brushing, plus a regular rub-down with a flannel soaked in warm water and Savlon, keeps the coat smelling sweet and free of dirt and grease. Grooming also gives you the chance to spot small cuts, abrasions, or lumps that can be easy to miss under a thick double coat.

 

Teeth, ears, toenails, and anal glands all need regular, careful attention.

 

A hound's feet carry a lot of weight, so keeping them in good condition matters.

 

Exercise on paving and hard ground, plus a good gallop over fields and through forests, helps keep them strong. In wet or icy weather, clean the feet after a walk to remove mud, small stones, or ice wedged between the toes or pads.

 

If nails don't wear down naturally, or if the hound has dewclaws, they'll need regular trimming. Overlong nails can cause pain and lead to injury during a gallop. Since Wolfhound nails are thick and strong, secateur-type clippers with a guard work best.

 

Safety

Wolfhounds' long tails are a constant source of worry, easily caught on sharp corners around the home — a cooker edge is a classic culprit, and a cut tail can redecorate a room in blood rather effectively. The slightest scratch must never go untreated: it can be slow to heal, become infected, and in the worst case lead to partial or full tail amputation.

 

Never trust a Wolfhound with livestock — the hunting instinct is strong, and the breed's motto might as well be "if it moves, chase it." You may trust your own hound not to chase your own animals on your own land, but out in open fields, anything is fair game. A Wolfhound should never get the chance to chase or kill livestock. If it happens, that's on the owner — but the dog can pay the price for it. Farmers retain the legal right to shoot dogs worrying stock, so it isn't a risk worth taking.

 

Never physically chastise a Wolfhound. Most are sensitive and intuitive, so a disapproving tone of voice is usually enough.

 

Not everyone loves dogs. Wolfhounds are naturally curious and will investigate anything that interests them, which not everyone appreciates. It's better to let members of the public approach the hound than to let the hound approach someone who may be nervous of their size.

 

All Wolfhound owners should take care that their hound is never a nuisance to anyone. As a breed, they can't go unnoticed in public, so proper control at all times is essential.